A city of emperors

For almost 150 years, Hue was the capital of Vietnam. From 1802 to 1945, the emperors of the Nguyen dynasty lived and ruled here, on the north bank of the Perfume River. Today Hue is a calm, green city with a slow pace of life, but its history is everywhere you look.

The heart of old Hue is the Imperial City, a huge area surrounded by thick stone walls and a moat. Inside, there were palaces, temples, gardens and the Forbidden Purple City, where only the emperor, his family and their servants could go. Ordinary people were not allowed to enter it at all.

Unfortunately, much of this was destroyed during the wars of the twentieth century. When you walk around the Imperial City now, you will see beautiful gates and halls next to empty fields of grass. In fact, some buildings have been rebuilt only in the last few years, and the work is still going on.

In 1993, the old buildings of Hue became a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Since then, the number of visitors has grown almost every year, and tourism now brings money and jobs to the city. At the same time, some locals worry that Hue could become a victim of its own success if it gets too busy, like other famous tourist towns.

If you visit, don't rush. Rent a bicycle, ride out to the royal tombs along the river, and try a bowl of bun bo Hue for breakfast. Above all, take your time. Hue is not a city you can understand in one afternoon; it rewards people who stop and smell the roses.